Skip to main content

Elizabethan High Necked Smock: Additional Sampling Required

After I went to bed last night, I admit to being plagued by a few doubts on how my smock was going to turn out. Creating a pattern on your own, even with some direction in mind, can be a little daunting. What added to my doubts was that I have very little linen to work with. If I make a mistake, I will have to order some more and then wait to work on my project. So in order to give myself a little confidence boost, I decided some additional samples were in order. Test samples also appeal to my engineering brain so I made them with pleasure.

The first thing I wanted to do was to try out a worked bar tack at the bottom of the neck slit for my high necked smock. Elizabethans used these to reinforce the neck slit against tearing. As anyone who has torn open a bag of chips part way and then later has had the bag continue to rip open from the wear of hands reaching inside to grab chips, knows that the interior of a crack is a weak spot. Tailors and seamstresses in the Renaissance were aware of this as well and created a method to counteract the weakness of the interior radius, no math required. The solution: a few lines of thread covered in a buttonhole stitch or what we like to call a thread bar.
POF4 Thread Bar  from page 26. The thread bar is from a white linen shirt worn by Claes Bielkenstierna when he was wounded in battle. It is from a collection in Livrustkammaren, Stockholm.
My thread bar doesn't look nearly as good. I can attest though that these things are strong.I mean, seriously, this thing held up in a battle! If you manage to rip a thread bar, you have superhuman strength. I pulled on the one I made several times, and then I made my husband try it, and neither of us ripped it.

My attempt at a thread bar. Not as neat but that will come with practice.
From what I have tested so far, I really have to express how impressed I am by the engineering of their garments. They put a lot of thought into making their garments last. In today's world, if something rips or gets a stain that cannot be removed, most of us give no thought to getting a new one. In the Elizabethan world, those garments would be turned, recut, reworked or repurposed to have new life. I love learning how these small things that they did in tailoring or sewing had such phenomenal results.

Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Starting At The Beginning

A wise person once said that in order to tell a story, you start at the beginning, keep going until you get to the end, and then you stop. Pretty good piece of advice to keep in mind as I start my first blog post. When I was young, I learned to sew by watching my mother and my grandmother. For many years I only used those skills to replace missing buttons or fix torn seams. Then I moved to the San Francisco Bay Area and was taken to my first Renaissance Faire as part of a guild. I had such a great time that I knew I had to make my own historic costume. I ended up making something new almost every faire for the past 2 or 3 years now. I have become a costume addict! I love making costumes, planning new costumes, and the hunt for that absolutely perfect fabric. It is true that whoever dies with the biggest fabric stash wins. Several friends convinced me to write a blog about my costuming experience and I finally took the plunge. I look forward to sharing my experience with costume of ...
1 comment
Read more

Ottoman Empire Gomlek

I recently started joining the local Society for Creative Anarchism (SCA) group to meet up with like-minded individuals interested in historic costumes and research. There is an upcoming event with a middle eastern theme and I have nothing to wear! So of course that meant frantic research into what middle eastern costume I wanted to make, draft the patterns and begin work. I finally settled on Ottoman Empire (Turkish) costume consisting of shalwar, gomlek, entari and caftan. I did quick and dirty research and The documentation that I found the most helpful are the following: https://serenesabiha.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/aripattern.pdf http://baronyofatenveldt.org/uploads/library/Ottoman%20Coat%20Handout%202011.pdf http://www.katjaorlova.com/FemaleTurkishGarb.pdf Linen gomlek before the added neckline facing. The first link has a great measurement chart that is helpful for keeping documentation of your measurements. I used the gomlek (or women's shirt) pattern and fo...
Post a Comment
Read more

Elizabethan High Necked Smock Test Samples

I am starting a new smock to wear as the undergarments for a new Elizabethan outfit. I started with the Tudor Tailor 's pattern for the smock. I read through the directions and realized that I was going to need to make a muslin of the smock so that I could make sure it would fit. The Tudor Tailor pattern is drawn for a size 12-14. Here is a quick sketch of what I ended up doing. A mockup is needed for this garment if you are not really close to the measurements of TT. Here is a list of steps that I took to get a pretty awesome fitting garment. Measure your chest, waist, hips, the largest part of your bicep while you are flexing, the length of your arm from shoulder point to your wrist, neck, wrist, and the distance between your shoulders. Write all of these measurements down. I always say I'm going to do this... and I don't always. It's a good habit, I should do it more. Get a cheap fabric like cotton muslin, some rulers, some washable markers, and scissor...
Post a Comment
Read more